BOOTS DOWN #3: "tightening the belt"
The Under-Discussed A/W 2025 Trends & Secondhand Luxury Recommendations: Big Belts, Belt Charms, A Lost Color, and an Unexptected Style Icon From Your Past.
Hi Spectators! Are you seated?
This week's newsletter is going to be a little different, but we’ll dig into A/W 2025’s under-discussed trends as a jumping off point. I have A LOT of thoughts on everything that came down the catwalks this season, so you’re getting the best I can whittle down quickly. These observations are more topical from the meta-trends that more genreally interst both you and I (i.e. around regarding “fascist aesthetics”, “aesthetics of the unbothered”, and identity performance). I’m excited to launch the next lengthy, juicy analysis on the political reflections with you all next week!
Despite the title of the piece, it has nothing to do with the deeply unfortunate trend of decreased size inclusivity on runways this season, “recession indicator” content spiking, or the storied luxury downturn that only Prada Group can seem to beat… but you may notice that boots will not be the only secondhand product recommendations you get this week.
XL BELTS
Whether you prefer girth or length, it appears that big-luxury will have your bases covered… when it comes to belts, that is.
Belts with exploded proportions can be seen on the F/W catwalks of Michael Kors Collection, Etro (not the last you’ll hear of them in this article), Dries Van Noten, Schiaparelli, and Elisabetta Franchia, to name a few.
Statement belts are an easy way to add personality to your existing wardrobe, enhancing the versatility of both statement pieces and sartorial staples alike. I’m not saying that these are magic wands for better personal style, but it is a singular item that can afford a lot of play time when getting dressed. As someone who struggles a lot with temperature sensitivity and sensory issues, I can confidently say that this is a relatively friendly alternative for the layering averse.
Many of the statement belts this season also incorporated tassels, some on the ends of string belts like at Ulla Johnson, others in cacophonous gatherings like that at Klausner’s Dries Van Noten. But some are not distinctly part of the accessories anatomy, but rather an additional appendage…
BELT CHARMS
Are belt charms the new bag charm? Is this appropriating lesbians and their carabiners? With a rise in chain belts, we may witness the ~*cHaRm-IfiCaTiOn*~ of the waist.
A few months ago I wrote a note on how I’d predicted the chatelain to be the next evolution of the chaotic customization trend that has been the root of much discussion in the online fashion and personal style space around authenticity. This prediction was validated by Kim Jones’ use of very literal chatelains in his final Dior Homme collection. Women got the most literal iteration of this at Chloe alongside the much discussed, pendulous oversized rabbits feet adorning a decent percentage of the looks.
But literal chatelains were not the only meta-accessories adorning other accessories.
Tassels, charms, padlocks, mini bags, and coin purses attached to belts at Jil Sander, Etro, Simone Rocha, Dolce & Gabbana, Fforme, and Isabel Marant to name a few.
I don’t think the authenticity engine is dying for the consumer any time soon. Customization will continue to be a leading force in how many begin to more consciously fashion their identity. Participating in the simulacra of (what feel like lab-grown) TikTok aesthetics, and sartorial practices of conformity is now cringe. While I hold that customization and authenticity will have it’s moment for another year, the brightest minds in fashion, branding, and strategy are talking about immaculate artifice as what cuts through the noise.
If Vintage YSL calls your name, there are belts galore on eBay. Shoot your shot! I’m currently eyeballing the lucite chains.
CORDOVAN
Our love for the most psychologically dense primary color doesn’t appear to be waning. Pops of red began emerging en masse around 2022 and has since been gradually descending in shade. Once vibrant, the popular hue has gone “cherry-coded”. Specifically “cherry cola”, or “black cherry”; darker, more sensuous variants of the more playful maraschino-like color that once dominated cool-girl accessorizing.
The term oxblood has been co-opted as an edgy synonym for burgundy, separating it from its truer cousin…Cordovan. The color gets its name from a special type of leather the Visigoths popularized in the Cordoba region of Spain. The equine leather specifically used a part of the upper fascia of … well.. it’s horse ass leather.
Cordovan’s potential can be traced to WGSN+Colouro’s 2026/2027 prediction for a rise in deep purples and browns, both of which are the undertones in Cordovan that make it distinctive and alluring. As we collectively move towards satisfying desires for authenticity and micro-trends are increasingly viewed as low-status behavior, this color variant plays it safe-enough for the trend-concious consumer. Tiptoeing away from from the ubiquity of the mainstream without completely abandoning it is an easy transition for the risk averse, especially for small leather goods.
While cordovan hasn’t seen any substantial growth via Google Trends search insights, and is not a searchable tag on Tagwalk (where I had to schlep through every look this season under “burgundy”, “purple”, and “brown” to find examples…) the qualitative, visual evidence was present at Acne, Alaia, Rabanne, Christopher Esber, Courreges, and Undercover to name a few. If you’re looking for cordovan on your own, I highly suggest using purple as a search term in eBay, TRR, Vestiaire, etc. as this is where I found almost all of my examples today!
Before the shade pops off - it’s going to get some kind of rebrand, probably food related. Tomato girls, blueberry nails, and glazed donut lips step aside for the … blackberry bag?
DAPHNE BLAKE
Another one I caught (and posted about in a Note) is what I’m calling The Daphne Blake. Yes, the Daphne Blake: once a cartoon damsel in distress, rebranded by Sarah Michelle Gellar as a kick-ass girlypop in the iconic 2000’s live-action adaption.
Bright purple and variants of lime green were seen across several runways, but most consistently at Nina Ricci and Gucci. These two colors were in WGSN + Colouro’s 26/27 FW color predictions, and I wouldn't be shocked if Kering’s higher ups requested using some of (nearly all of) the colors from the 26/27 release as they continue to flail in the wake of the luxury downturn. With an appointment like Demna, it feels like they’re pulling out every single stop to save the group.
This was definitely the most fun to edit together, and I caught myself asking if maybe I am a purple girl as a drooled over dusty lavendar gogo boots, and lilac western stompers. Perhaps, this is the year I align with my “winter complexion” (code for a pale brunette) and pull the trigger on what was once my most loathed color.
LAST THOUGHT OF THE WEEK (TOTW)
I’d love to know your thoughts on if you see these trends sticking, or if they feel more like outliers to you. Many of internet-fashion’s loudest voices (and mostly, deservedly so) have spoken at length about Fur’s return (and its cousin, hair), whimsical plush accessories, and bright, sumptuous fabrics like leather, jacquard, or velvet - but these *waves arms above ahead, singnaling to everything you just read* are the ones that felt like they flew a little under the radar… or maybe over our heads.
I’d love to know what trends you noticed that you havent seen anyone talk about! For me, I need to see it in about 4 shows minimum to consider it a trend to watch. Increasingly, I have a feeling we are on the precipice of Mod and Retro-Futurism as we continue through the Miuccia-ssance.
Romanticism and the bohemian movement are emerging at full force, but with the rise of Sean Monahan’s “BOOM BOOM” & technological oligarchy on the other side, I’m curious of where our nolstalgic obsession will turn next. While it’s starting to saturate in the marketing space, I don’t think consumers are going to let go of a desire for nostalgia anytime soon - they’ll just need it to, ironically, evolve with them.
Favorite Reads!
on the Rise of the “TikTok Oracle”. I know many of you are here from TT yourself, but I’m sorry to say that it’s my most loathed way of gaining readership simply because I don’t really align with it’s requirement over simplistic hot takes (“Is your favorite aesthetic fascist… or not?” comes to mind). Nikita is a favorite voice of mine on Substack who is consistently ahead of curve with her feet on the ground. As someone seeking a big pivot (curse my BFA in Acting) she serves as lighthouse as to where I may be able to thrive. If you’re reading this, I’d love to buy you a coffee.
This excited me in that it’ll be a massive help in structuring my theory that Opulent 80’s Corpcore “Boom Boom” (also Sean’s term) aesthetic and Miuccia Prada’s grotesque proportions of Frazzled Womanhood live on the same spectrum… and are closer than you think.
Eugbrandstrat’s video on the rise of fiction as a consumer trend!
I was talking to my friend Hannah, who works at Pinterest, about how I think the authenticity obsession is on it’s way out just last week. People are catching on in the deluge of personal style content that *gasp* it’s all identity performance and it’s already commodified. The influencer bubble is bursting and people are bored of traditional UGC. Leaning into artifice and creating distict characters and worlds is what stands out. Theatricality is in (maybe I shouldn’t curse my BFA) and editorial is back. Hate on the Valentino collection all you want (I definitely will), but the premise and execution of the public restroom was brilliant and I think they could have pushed it even further.
My mutual
literally just dropped her A/W 2025 SuperlativesHonestly, inspiring me to try my own hand! I love seeing what others are drawn to outside of the Rick Owens, Ann D, Simone Rocha, & Sandy Liang circles. And I was THRILLED to see someone give Dior’s “Marius Pontmercy” look some respect!
If you send this to a friend I’ll give you a digital kiss … and a customized secondhand styling edit if you refer 5 people! Give me 3 words to describe your style, and 3 to describe what youre looking for - those are the only ingredients I need to cook something goooood for you.
If you enjoyed this post (liked the recs or how my trend-spotting eye works) please like before you leave! Literally it’s so easy to like any post on Substack that you enjoyed! Most people here do it for the love of it and it’s a massive under-taking of time. I hope to keep access free for a while, which is why I’ve started using ShopMy for my links.
this is so kind, if you're in NY let's chat x IRL! If not URL <3